le parfum de l'orient

Painting: Hasegawa Tōhaku Pine Trees

Have you ever wondered what makes a scent “Oriental” and how does it differ from being merely “exotic”? What are some examples of Oriental fragrances?

Definition

Oriental scents are predominantly “amber” having an opulent bouquet that is warm, sensual and intoxicating while “exotic” simply means originating from a foreign country. Oriental scents often contain musk, vanilla, exotic resins, wood, flowers and spices. Oriental scents are classified into five subgroups:

1. Oriental Floral - sweet, warm & spicy e.g. gardenia, orchid, carnation
2. Oriental Spicy - hot & sensual e.g. cinnamon, clove, nutmeg
3. Oriental Vanilla - intensely sweet e.g. vanilla, caramel, honey
4. Oriental Woody - warm & dry e.g. sandalwood, vetiver, cedar
5. Oriental Fougere - exotic blends refreshed with lavender, rosemary or oakmoss

Painting: Li Jun Spring Flowers and Birds

An Eastern Perspective

Coming from the East, besides the obvious geographical origin of the plant from which the scent is derived, an Oriental scent, in my humble opinion, more than anything else, reflects our Way of Life in terms of how they appear in our food, rituals and customs, or how they scent our homes, gardens and places of worship, etc. So, many Asians, like myself, appreciate them in very different ways compared to our Western counterparts. After all, in most, if not all, of the literature that I’ve encountered on the internet, we’re looking at scents through the (olfactory) lens of the West.

Before I begin sharing about scents which I find quintessentially Oriental, I would like to stress that this is my personal opinion only and anyone is free to dispute or disagree with me. So, here it goes, the [scent]uary’s list of Oriental scents.

• Agarwood
• Aglaia flower
• Angelica root
• Anise star
• Buddha wood
• Cardamom
• Champaca
• Cumin
• Cyclamen
• Cypriol
• Euphorbia
• Fenugreek
• Frangipani
• Frankincense
• Gardenia
• Ginger
• Henna leaf
• Hiba
• Hinoki
• Jasmine
• Kaffir lime leaf
• Lemongrass
• Lotus
• Mandarin
• Mimosa
• Myrrh
• Nutmeg
• Osmanthus
• Patchouli
• Sandalwood
• Shiso leaf
• Gandhi root
• Vetiver
• Ylang-Ylang
• Yuzu

This list is by no means exhaustive nor definitive. What I do hope, however, is that it helps you narrow down your choices if you’re considering making an Oriental fragrance. So, happy blending!